The Eau de Toilette outlasts the Eau de Parfum on my skin by several hours, but if you want not just tenacity but also curves, look no further than L’Extrait. Jaké vůně a parfémy doporučují ostatní? As TillyWave says, no real review is needed here. Note the deeply ambered colour. It has the gorgeous deep bergamot in a now classic combination with a very pretty lavender and an incredible coctail of multifaceted musks that never ‘play’ the same tune twice. Vintage Shalimar is a glorious, head-turning, spellbinding masterpiece of complexity and opulence in its pure parfum form, but the other concentrations can be appealing in different ways or suit different needs.Today, in Part II, we’ll look at the vintage Shalimar Eau de Toilette, Parfum de Toilette, and Eau de Parfum from three decades — the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s — and the ways in which their scent … For the most part, though, and just like the EDT, the vast majority of the composition is centered on the bergamot. “Wow Jacques Guerlain, I wish I did one thing that great in my lifetime.” — Hear, HEAR, Danica!!! Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. I’ve spent almost five days digging through Guerlain guides and old photos online to make the technical differences as accurate, simple, and clear as possible, but it’s a huge amount of information to absorb, so it’s best left to its own section without any of the scent analysis to take up your time. The bergamot doesn’t shriek like nails down a chalkboard the way the 2010 EDT did, but it’s bad enough. Témata jako Shalimar EdT x EdP se rozebírají v diskuzi na Arome.cz. Přivoňte si i vy a připojte se do diskuze (10) Flickering in the background are smoky vanilla, leather, syrupy jasmine and red roses, but they’re so minor, light, and quiet that I have to practically burrow my nose into my arm to detect one or two of them in the opening minutes. The boozy and increasingly smoky vanilla takes the lead, while the bergamot temporarily retreats to the sidelines. But no matter the price, if there is a fragrance that you’re tempted by and the seller has that option listed, use it! GUERLAIN Shalimar Cologne: rated 5 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. Season & Occasion: Autumn (EdT) and winter (EdP). I read this post a couple of days with great interest. 4 years ago. Detail of “Hijinks” by Matt Spinella at Saatchi Art. It’s bookmarked, and I’ll be checking back to see what else you’ve posted. All this talk of smoke, darkness, plushness, furs, and tea made my spine tingle in the best of ways. There is a half-full 100 ml bottle for less than $40; a full 3 oz (so 90 ml) one for over $245; and a 8 oz or roughly 250 ml for about $350. The most common bottle size is a 7.5 ml (or 1/4 ounce) mini, comes with a black and gold (not a zebra/black and white) box, and is priced generally in the $25 region. Notes3: (Top) bergamot, mandarin, lemon, cedar; (Heart) iris, rose, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver; (Base) tonka, leather, opoponax, vanilla, musk, civet, incense, sandalwood. Great post full of useful and thorough information. Guerlain launched in 1979 an intermediate version between Parfum and Eau de Toilette, and it was called Parfum de Toilette (PdT). Some of the popular or commonly found options are lovely, like wonderfully aged Eau de Toilettes or a mid-1980s bottle of Parfum de Toilette. 1976 vintage Shalimar Eau de Toilette, 8 oz bottle. End of collection. I have a bottle from 1998 that used to belong to my sister and that she gave me as a gift around 2005. The Eau de Parfum, 2010: This is the latest version of the Eau de Parfum in the new Jade Jagger bottle. The scent is now a blur of quietly smoky and creamy vanilla layered with Earl Grey bergamot, candied benzoin resin, floral sweetness, and the benzoin’s cinnamon spiciness. And yes, one could say it feels warm – but not in the fluffy, snuggly way most warm scents are2. This is Shalimar as I know and love it. I couldn’t really skip over them, particularly since some of the lighter concentrations are far more popular than the extrait. A very crisp, brisk, and refreshing lemon note peeks out from behind it, followed moments later by syrupy jasmine, vanilla, and smoky incense. I’m sorry about that because I know the dating analysis was what most of you were eagerly anticipating. I submitted a slightly lower price, first $30 off, which was below his reserve and rejected, then a second one for about $20 off which he accepted right away. Another difference is that the notes seem to dissolve sooner into the drydown bouquet of smoky sweetness. There were almost no flutters of rose at all, pale or otherwise, no furry animalics, no sense of dark musks, and only a ghostly, elusive whisper of leather that died out quite quickly. Make a counter-offer, and see what happens. I have a small cardboard vial from the 50’s I assume – inside some glass or hardplastic vials, long, thin tubes. 1 of the greatest fragrances of ALLLLL time! That Earl Grey bergamot vanilla cream pie, licked with smoke, booze, and jasmine… I don’t think I’ll ever get enough of it. The sandalwood gradually became a noticeable presence after a few hours before being replaced by benzoin resin and, then, later, by a light dusting of Guerlainade tonka and vanillic powder. There were soft, quiet streaks of sandalwood in the base right at the start, and a passing, quiet suggestion of Guerlainade hovering in the background. It doesn’t help matters that the scent turns quite sheer and airy from the 2.5 hour mark onwards, losing much of its heft, body, potency, and sillage. I am asking because I myself do not know any EdC versions by Guerlain. I know this must be a rarity amongst rarities. The 1970s ones are lovely as compared to what followed, but not as compared to what preceded them.). I’m more of an extrait person, but I so enjoyed reading about the nuances of the various concentations of Shalimar. There is no box to signify its age, but the liquid is nicely dark in colour, so you should for any numbers on the bottom of the bottle. I understand exactly what you mean by the Maria Callas comparison because I’ve used that same one in the past in some reviews — sometimes positively but sometimes in the way that you did. It’s hard to explain, but I hope you experience that at some point in your life, whether it’s for this fragrance or another. None of my own Marly or Shalimar fragrances come in the parapluie design or bottle, so there wasn’t much point in talking about it in Part I’s reviews and scent descriptions. 5. Not fake, just false. Shalimar Eau de Parfum Set. The jasmine joins it there, smelling more like another form of sweetness than anything clearly floral. Thank you so much for even considering to answer my too many questions! But now, after having tried it not once, but several times, I can say, Shalimar is indeed a rich, fascinating perfume. The vintage EDP followed the same basic path and development as the PdT, but again there were a few exceptions. I love chypres, but not to the same degree, not instinctively and viscerally the way an oriental always gets me. Perfume Reviews eau de parfum, eau de toilette, edp, edt, extrait, ... Then the Guerlain parfums-Shalimar, Samsara and big thanks to Chaya for my new found love for Mitsouko in vintage extract. Everything feels hollow and dull, like translucent, muddy, hasty watercolour smears done on cheap quality paper. Given the sometimes technical nature of the dating analysis and the slew of different bottle or manufacturer names, I fear it would have tried your patience and made your eyes glaze over unless if I shortened things. At the same time, a bland, generic, supposed “incense” smokiness appears but, like everything else, its quality feels rather dubious to me. If that doesn’t work, then you need to go older with a really brown, aged juice/bottle from before the 1970s. As I mentioned Shalimar Souffle is on par with Allure, Shalimar is lemon vanilla, Allure EDP is peach-tangerine vanilla. The EDT has more smoke, booze, leather, and musks that appear sooner, in addition to a stronger flutter of roses. A friend gave me a giant compiled CD set of her performances, and a few made me actually wince at the pitch. This time in Paris, I had an epiphany. I think I digressed. It’s fascinating and enriching, and at first its atmosphere filled with the nostalgy and mystery of bygone eras is a wonder to explore. Everything blends together so seamlessly that it’s difficult to separate out the notes. As others I thought Souffle refers to desert, but later learned it means breath in French, not desert:). And for a fragrance to stick around for so long… it’s got to be special! So I did. Maybe surpassed in fame only by its contemporary Chanel Nº5, Guerlain Shalimar is certain to appear very near the top of any list of Perfume Legends. I have an umbrella bottle that must be from the late seventies based on your description–the ‘raw’ bergamot with flowers is also present before the gorgeous resin and leather show appears. EdP cítím jako ostřejší, kadidlo + něco jako starý pudr, vanilka po více … The jasmine smells mostly like a blurry, floral, syrupy sweetness, and licks the vanilla’s edges. So, as I meet Shalimar’s jewel-like bottle in stores, time and again I grab it, sniff the nozzle with a smile of appreciation, then put it back without much heartache. It’s like the work of a great composer that has stood the test of time. Those numbers begin to drop after the first hour, even if the actual aroma is potent and strong up close. $135.00 Intensity 3 on 4. As compared to everything that came before it, the opening and first three hours of a modern, late 1990s eau de toilette can only be described as “dire,” at least in my eyes. Opus 1144 is bombastic the way Maria Callas could be and also, I’m afraid to say it, occasionally a bit sharp and shrill like Maria as well. Now, I know perfume lovers get (rightfully) annoyed with the misuse of terms like “old lady”, but in this review, I must use the word “old” – and I assure, I don’t mean it in any way derrogatory (in fact, why should an old lady be a derrogatory image?). They are still there, though. Témata jako Shalimar EdT x EdP se rozebírají v diskuzi na Arome.cz. (BTW, I still have the image of a red Namibia sunset coming up through the airplane portal windows as you smelt Shalimar for the first time. It smells just like ambered, caramel candy, and it wafts gusts of cinnamon all over the other notes. One reason might be that the EDT is older, so its scent has concentrated down to be stronger, richer, and deeper would otherwise be the case, thereby rendering it almost the equivalent of a younger eau de parfum. There is a large and separate section devoted to Marly edition fragrances and boxes as a whole. You have nothing to lose, right? I think they’re meant to be “civet” and “sandalwood,” respectively, but they’re both so generic, indeterminate, and diluted (except for their synthetic sharpness and pepperiness) that it’s difficult to tell with certainty. Photo & bottles: my own. Dochází mi můj shalimaří medvídek…já to nepřežiju…na další várku nemám love. It was a question of degree, not of kind. If you’re applying a few light dabs, you may want to apply double the dose. PdT was not a simple "dilution" but a different "reorchestration". The scent descriptions combined with only a partial explanation of the many bottle designs for Shalimar and their boxes ended up exceeding 8,200 words, and I hadn’t even gotten to the other indicators of age or date at that point! It’s simply an amorphous impression of goldenness. It’s a purrfect veil like the extraits but reminds me more of eau legere in the drydown with its lemony cast. Depending on how many or how few of the tubes that you have, I’m not sure I would risk actually breaking one open if I were in your shoes. I winced at reading your tale. One reason why may be because I gravitate towards orientals more than chypres any day of the week. Photo: my own. When I start my Shalimar search I’m going straight to the pure parfums, so I look forward to part 111. The dominant focus right from the start was on the core trio of bergamot, smoky vanilla, and syrupy jasmine. In terms of Mitsouko, I think it’s beautiful, sexy, sultry and a brilliant feat of perfume mastery, but it never caught me the way that L’Heure Bleue or Shalimar did. Be that as it may, I noticed that different concentrations from different decades took a slightly different approach to Shalimar’s modern and basic olfactory model, and those differences were most noticeable during the first two or three hours. Again, both are lighter in comparison to the reduced, concentrated-down parfums, but the overall scent is what matters at the end of the day as well as the ease of finding replacements. Photo: my own. You don’t even need to wait for Part III or to use the wonderful, authoritative batch code guide from Raiders of The Lost Scent to be in safe territory so long as you use the most basic rule of thumb or starting point (for the non-extraits): just look for the black-and-white, zig-zag, “zebra” box since they date from roughly 1967 to the mid-80s but not beyond. ?” Part of that is due to my tendency to hoard vintage fragrances unless I have enough to feel safe in wearing them with reckless abandon, but there is also just… something… about vintage Shalimar. / Parfum vs EDP vs EDT: What the brands will never tell you (it’s more than just concentration levels!) It joins the bergamot and darker notes on center stage about 10 minutes into the fragrance’s development. To that end, if you can’t immediately find a good-sized 1950s parfum (and trust me, the large bottles are either highly limited in number, astronomically priced, or quickly swooped up by wealthy collectors), then consider expanding your search to include the old EDTs as well. Photo: Bruno Paolo Benedetti via brunopaolobenedetti.com (Direct website link embedded within.). Shalimar Light/Eau Legere Parfumee (EdT), launched in 2003, formula: 0461M (then reformulated in 2005, new formula: 01445M) Eau de Shalimar (EdT): formula 03388M (year 2008) Parfum Initial EdP: formula 05634M (year 2011) Parfum Initial l'Eau EdT: formula 06330M (year 2012) Unfortunately, I’m afraid I’m going to have save the technical analysis on how to date bottles of Shalimar for a previously unplanned and additional section, Part III. (And I don’t say that merely because of the time or expense that you’ve incurred in hunting them out). The eau de toilette and eau de parfum are lovely, but the extrait de parfum is incomparable, as is the case for most of the Guerlain fragrances. You know, even if it’s not the pure parfum, the really old EDTs are very lovely too. I am going to use my almost finished bottle of PDT bought in the 80’s but I bought another one last year and one more in its way, your review made me realise I needed another one! First, at the start of the second hour, the scent gradually gains substance and body, losing some of its wishy-washy translucency and blandness, and it’s mostly due to the syrupy jasmine. But the reason isn’t that I don’t like it any more. It’s more widely available than the lovely Parfum de Toilette and comes in bigger sizes, too. $110.00 Intensity 3 on 4. Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Aaand I just dropped another $80 on an EDT that dates to between 1967-1976. ¹ I think no other perfume house makes so many gorgeous bottles as Guerlain. That last one is a ridiculous price, in my opinion. I think it’s way too heavy for summer. Bestseller. That may not be right away. At least for me. It really *is* some sort of madness, and I hate to tell you that it only gets worse once one experiences the vintage versions. The opening is just awful. Out of all the secondary notes, the only one with some weight and substance is the smoky, dry, but also slightly boozy vanilla. Right: vintage 1984 Shalimar Parfum de Toilette. The bergamot finally begins to waft small puffs of Earl Grey in addition to its lemony briskness. When combined with the vanilla, the eventual result is a strong blanket of Guerlainade that hangs over everything. The liquid was a bit think, dark, and absolutely heavenly. To my surprise, there wasn’t a massive difference between the three lighter concentrations, the Eau de Toilette, the Eau de Parfum, and the Parfum de Toilette. Your description of your plane ride and the sunrise descent over the African savannah create such a wealth of images in my mind, and they make me want to go to Africa more than ever. ... You can buy Lancôme La Vie est Belle L’Eclat EDP from Boots UK, and from the Lancome UK and Lancome USA websites. Přivoňte si i vy a připojte se do diskuze (8) With 2 sprays from an actual bottle, the fragrance opened with about 2.5 inches of projection and 3-4 inches of scent trail. It is a gorgeous perfume, and an admirable work of art… but not for me. I’ve read that the eau de toilette’s tear-shaped or “goutte” bottle was technically in use until roughly 2001, so that’s not the best indicator by itself. I’m craving a cup of Earl Grey now, if only to let the scent mingle with the hint of smoke lingering in the air from one of the neighbours burning leaves. The very new Shalimar extrait, I haven’t smelled, but all things leathery and balsamic and dirty-musky have disapperead from the new EDP and … Haha, many of Agatha Christie’s most sophisticated, glamorous women are precisely the sort to wear Shalimar parfum in its old, vintage form. , You’re very welcome, Merlina. It has a small, narrow spray nozzle, so the amounts are not equal to that from a regular bottle. Shalimar Philtre de Parfum Eau de Parfum. … But, after many tries, I admit, my nose detects about zero citrus, and only a soft, non-edible vanillic whisper hiding shyly in the powdery-woody drydown. One day, one day…. I also have and enjoy lighter concentrations include Parfum de Toilette which doesn’t really appeal to me, the bergamot clashes with my skin in a way the earlier versions do not. Eau de Toilette vs. Eau de Parfum: The Lowdown Turns out, the key difference between the two types isn’t so nuanced after all; in fact, it’s wildly straightforward and scientific. I’ve sometimes wondered just how many people who say they hate Shalimar hate it because they’ve tried the modern, recent ones and none of the vintage versions? Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. To me, they have zero personality or memorable characteristics beyond their synthetic character. However, this 1984 (?) The first one is the main and strongest bouquet, and also the one which wins out after 75-90 minutes. To answer your question, I’ve never tried any Guerlain vintage EDC. Indeed, it has more in common with Parfum Initial than it does with La Vie est Belle. I don’t know whether that makes sense —. Syrupy jasmine, incense, and leather lap at its edges, while thin threads of dark musks and thicker, stronger ones of powdery tonka tie everything together. From $80.00 ... $96.00 Intensity 2 on 4. Plus, the fragrance lies so close to the skin that it requires some effort to detect it after the 4.5 hour mark. Don’t feel embarrassed or hesitant. Considered a pillarstone of the Oriental fragrance family, and one of the most highly regarded compositions of all times, this iconic scent was composed by Jacques Guerlain back in 1925. It becomes one of the three main notes; the other two are the dry, smoky (but not particularly boozy) vanilla and the citrus mix. Bergamot is much softer, while the dry down is remarkably luminous and rich. The 1998 EDT shifts quickly. I did a side-by-side test of the two fragrances. There is a one-dimensional quality to both the individual notes and to the overall bouquet. One can get tired even of vintage Mitsouko — no matter what the concentration — if one wears it every day. Created with Sketch. Still, it’s always a pleasure to pass by and visit it – a wonderful scent I’m happy to see around, and hope will go on around for many decades more. Do you know, it’s the vintage EDT that I go to bed in every night because I spray a little every few days on my sheets and pillows? The EDPs bottles typically come in 75 ml or 2.5 oz sizes which, obviously, is a better choice for some than 7.5 ml of PdT. I’m not keen on cologne lightness, sheerness, or how quickly my skin eats through such scents, but most of all, I really shy away from citrusy, fresh scents and everything that I’ve read about Shalimar cologne indicates it has a lot of citrus in the opening indeed. Most of us do. You had said that you thought your Umbrella bottle might be from the 1970s, judging by the codes on the bottom of the bottle? The leather and musks sink down to take their place in the base. My most worn fragrance of 2017, this is an underrated gem. Your olfactory guides for Slalimar are unique and quite invaluable. I read all the Wilbur Smith books on Africa when I was a child, and they left an impact that I’ve never forgotten. It’s dusted with Guerlainade tonka powder, then placed atop a base of soft sandalwood before the whole thing is cocooned within a generalized golden warmth. Wellcome to my blog of fragrance reviews, writing tips & musings! I had really hoped to keep everything together, but it would have been ridiculously and painfully long. It was only when I tried the 1970s pure parfum that Shalimar truly grabbed my attention and my heart, but I think it’s really dependent on the wearer’s personality, style, and scent preferences. I feel I have learned so much, and acquired a new appreciation for this lovely perfume. I’m sure quite a few hate Shalimar on her own merits and regardless of vintage or not, but I am also sure that at least a few are reacting to the modern bouquet’s difficult aspects. Apparently it is a reinterpretation of Eau Legere, … I was lucky to find a huge, unopened 8 oz or 250 ml bottle of vintage eau de toilette on eBay for about $115. The numbers drop incrementally after that, and the fragrance feels quite soft by the middle of the 3rd hour. Putting aside the issue of synthetics, I find the actual scent itself to be flat, lifeless, and deeply uninteresting. The latter is, for the first time, slightly creamy. It’s the divaesque issue. Soon after my sister gave me the fragrance, I sprayed some on, grimaced, and promptly stuck the bottle at the back of the armoire where I used to keep all my vintage fragrances, never to be applied again until last month. ( Log Out / It’s smelled great to people for almost 100 years. I find folks enjoying the animalic qualities of Shalimar best suited to the eau de toilette, which seems to let the floral heart and civet in the base breath more freely, at the cost of some development. I was fascinated to hear about the cardboard-encased, glass travel vials! Parfum de Toilette is stronger than the 1990 Eau de Parfum that I owned. As a whole, the bouquet lacks body and substance. Those familiar with Shalimar will recognize a similar fire and ice effect in Jicky. Hovering on the sidelines are powdery Guerlainade tonka and something very fresh which resembles clean white musk far too much for my liking. Také záleží na koncentraci, EDP opravdu jen takto výhradně, EDT bych použila i večer do společnosti nebo na léto večer na procházku do města. The cumulative effect is a boozy, smoky vanilla fragrance imbued with dark, ambered resins above a thin base of leathery muskiness. A better one, in my opinion, than opting for a bottle from a more recent or modern era. Dark musks and incense are layered within, giving the bouquet almost a smoky black tea vibe combined with a hint of plush furs. — but nothing has quite the same effect on me. Vintage Shalimar eau de parfum, 1990s. EDP 2016 (profumo molto equilibrato e bilanciato ma intensità non all'altezza di un EdP che si rispetti) Shalimar EdP Vs Habit Rouge EdT Habit Rouge ha connotati legnosi, cuoiati e fioriti più intensi rispetto a Shalimar che invece è pià talcato e animalico. The first PdT was Nahema (in 1979), followed by other fragrances during the Eighties. Certainly, there are differences between EDT and EDP. Dot box Jicky is extraordinary as well, one of the best perfumes I have ever smelled. All I know is that I find both of them to be of atrocious quality, and they make me grit my teeth. Smelling Shalimar, to me, has the same effect of visiting an antique shop. It’s quite delectable and very cozy, but I think one must have a fair tolerance for sweetness and powderiness to enjoy it. An oriental spicy fragrance for women, it opens with bergamot, cedar, citruses, lemon and mandarin orange, a fresh, energizing introduction. ), I am going to be able to shop online with more confidence, and hopefully, find another ’50’s era bottle of perfume. (In my opinion and in all honesty, I don’t think the 1970s bottles have a really knee-weakening, earth-shattering scent as compared to the older ones. Even if the 1998 EDT eventually improved to become quite pretty towards the end, the much older bottles are usually lovely, sometimes even absolutely gorgeous and addictive, right from the very first moment. But if I apply quite a bit more — like 3 small squirts on each arm and one on either side of the neck — I’ve occasionally smelt thin, quiet wisps on my arm extending into the 10th hour, even the scent is fused so closely to the skin that it requires a bit of effort to detect it. It is simply lovely and I began to understand and enjoy the beauty of this fragrance. A new note takes the bergamot’s place on center stage: benzoin. I was wondering if you have any experience with the Eau de Cologne version of Shalimar in those lovely round flacons montre? If the Marly Horse 1950s and 1960s extraits felt like one was wearing jewel-studded satins, velvets, leathers, and furs, if the 1984 Parfum de Toilette and 1976 Eau de Toilette felt like rich silks, then this 1998 eau de toilette is the equivalent of grey sweatpants and a faded, worn, ditchwater-coloured, hole-y, t-shirt. I am curious about the umbrella Marley Horse bottles which I don’t think you memtioned? I do have quite a few bottles of cologne from Caron, and especially the old ones are extremely potent—take Nuit de Noël for instance. The box is the post-1967, black and white “zig zag” or “zebra box” with a 1967 copyright date Photo: my own. At that point, the 1976 EDT becomes a seamless blend of smoky Earl Grey bergamot layered with the more aromatic, fragrant, and bitter oils of its rind, then dark, slightly furry musks, incense smoke, and dark, smoky vanilla. My apologies for the delayed response, but it’s been a very busy time dealing with Part III.
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